Worsted and semi worsted spinning

In the mid 60s we succeeded in convincing leading worsted spinners to blend linen tops, after which totally new applications of linen blends were successfully developed.
In order to spin fine counts on the worsted spinning systems, the linen fibers have to be of the highest grade of cleanliness. The search for higher grades of raw materials remains one of our major challenges.

Linen tops can be spun in fully normal circumstances up to Nm 50 and even finer. This implies a rigorous selection of the raw materials and the correct processing of the fibers (carding, intersecting, converting, gilling and combing). We have developed a wide range of grades to unable any requested application (knitted and woven garments, voile, upholstery etc.)
Our qualities can also be recombed, if necessary. One can choose to recomb the pure linen or the 50/50 blend. Combing equipment appropriate for wool with a medium micronaire should be used for this.   
After recombing the 50/50 blends, the final requested linen content will be adjusted on the intersecting gill frame . 
Worsted-yarn counts for both weaving and knitting purposes can vary from 18's metric to 50's metric, although some linen tops can be spun at 100's metric.
The linen content ranges from 10 to 55 %, depending on the yarn count or the requested outlook of the final fabric.
The price of combed linen tops depends on its fineness and cleanliness, characteristics which also determine the spinning efficiency and spinning limits of the yarn.

We supply some 15 well-established standards with fiber diagrams for the worsted spinning system.  

Flow chart for linen fibre production for processing on semi-worsted and worsted spinning system
  Raw material : flax hackled tow and line flax
naturel (water or dew retted). boiled and scoured, bleached
(natural and optical) and dyed
  Rescutching, precarding, blending
Semi-worsted spinning system Worsted spinning system
  Carding Carding
  Converting Converting
  Intersecting Intersecting
  Autoleveling Combing
  Autoleveling Autoleveling
  Bump-making Bump-making
  Bale pressing Bale pressing
  Ruban Flamme Combed top Recombed top



The worsted spinning system is perfectly adapted to the spinning of linen blends. Despite the limited linen content (55% in finer counts and 30% in coarser yarns), this spinning system creates the "linen-look" effect. This way, pleasant and varied structures are obtained in the fabrics, source of creativity for designers, which have become indispensable in the textile sector.


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